Guide
Luxury Watches — Valuation Guide & What We Buy
What makes a luxury watch valuable, which brands hold their worth, and what to look for before selling — a practical guide from our specialists.
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Items like this can't be valued by weight alone. Our specialists assess authenticity, condition, and current market demand to give you an accurate offer.
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What determines a watch's value
Unlike jewellery, a watch's value isn't simply a function of its metal weight. The brand, model, reference number, movement condition, provenance and secondary market demand all play significant roles — sometimes eclipsing the raw material value by a factor of ten or more.
A gold Rolex Submariner is worth far more than its gold weight suggests. Conversely, an obscure brand with a gold case may be worth little more than the melt value of its case. Understanding where your watch sits in this spectrum is essential before accepting any offer.
Brand & model
Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Cartier, Omega and a handful of others command a significant premium over lesser-known makers. Certain reference numbers are far more desirable than others within the same brand.
Movement condition
A running watch is worth more than a non-runner, all else equal. However, a non-working watch from a prestigious brand often still commands a strong price — particularly if the issue is minor.
Box & papers
Original box, papers and service history increase value meaningfully. A watch sold with its complete set can command 20–40% more than the same watch without documentation.
Case & dial originality
Unpolished cases, original dials and original hands are prized by collectors. Refinished or repainted dials significantly reduce collector value, even if the watch looks better cosmetically.
Gold content
For watches where the brand premium is modest, the gold case and bracelet weight becomes the primary value driver. We assess purity and weight precisely using XRF analysis.
Before you sell
Practical checklist
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